In the last segment, Mosby had just grouted the tile for his new wine cellar. The third segment will pick up by completing the tile and then progressing to the walls.

1. The thinset mortar for the tile has dried overnight after Day Two, and now it's time to apply the grout to the tile. As Mosby learned, applying grout takes some practice. Using a tool called a float, he filled the seams between the tiles with grout (figure B), trying his best to avoid digging the grout back out. A flat diagonal stroke with even pressure works best when working with a float.

Note: The grout that Mosby used has a sand base, which is best for wider grout lines. Unsanded grout is usually used in bathrooms and other rooms where the tile is set closer together. No matter what type of grout is used, however, good tile work takes time.

2. Before the grout dries, remove the excess with a wet sponge. Once it's totally dry, wipe off the tiles with a dry, soft rag.

While the grout dries, it's time to prepare to install the interior wall covering. During his research weeks before the project actually began, Mosby found out that the choice of material is a matter of taste. One great option to line the walls of the cellar is to use shiplap (figure C), which is made from redwood and a perfect barrier against moisture because it can stand high humidity. And it's attractive to boot. Mosby made this choice because the shiplap covering would match the racking for the wine cellar.

The shiplap is milled from raw redwood lumber, and it's cut into 1-1/4" wide strips that are 7/16" thick and cut at various lengths. The boards are interlocking and similar to a tongue-and-groove board except that each is notched and has a lip that laps over the previous strip (figure D). Once installed, it creates a flush-wall surface (figure E).

The material is shipped in large bundles that must be cut to the proper length, then each strip or slat is installed.

3. Now it's time to install the shiplap slats. First, measure the walls then cut the redwood materials to fit. Note that you'll have options as to how the shiplap can be applied to the walls -- lengthwise, up and down, etc. Mosby chose lengthwise because he wanted the shiplap to look like paneling (see figure E).
4. If you decide to go with shiplap as Mosby did, you'll need to use 18-gauge galvanized brads to attach the slats. The brads should be placed approximately every 6". By driving the brads well into the tongue (figure F) of the shiplap, they will be hidden from view.

Tip: It's important that the brads are sunken well into the wood. You may have to use a nail-set to sink the brads a little deeper.

5. When installing the shiplap, it's important to start with the ceiling first, then the walls. The reason is that the wall slats will hide the cuts around the edge of the ceiling.

Note: Installing the shiplap slats will require more than 6,000 brads, which means your job will be a lot easier if you use a nail gun. Also, using an air gun will reduce the splitting of the redwood, which is naturally soft. So using a air nail gun is practical and will save you time.

6. After several hours the walls and ceiling are done (figure G).
7. Now it's time to close up and complete the exterior walls of the wine cellar. Mosby and Glass began by insulating the two newly fitted walls.

Safety Alert: When working with insulation, please remember to wear gloves, a mask and protective eyewear.

8. Outfitted in their safety wear, Mosby and Glass stapled the R-13 insulation inside the framing cavities of the new walls. It's vital that the paper moisture barrier of the insulation (figure H) be mounted facing the warm side of the room -- farthest away from the cellar interior. The idea is to keep the high humidity and cool air in and the warmer, less humid air out.

Tip: When working with insulation, be sure that you don't "press" the insulation into the wall because it needs to have air circulating throughout in order to insulate the room properly.

9. With the insulation installation completed, it's time to hang the drywall on the exterior of the wine cellar. Standard 1/2" drywall is being used, and it's important that you measure the outlets and cooling unit hole properly before attaching the drywall.
10. Wse standard 1-1/4" drywall screws, and space them out every 8" (figure I). Be careful to sink the heads of the screws below the face of the drywall. The holes will be patched later on. Also be careful not to tear the drywall paper.
11. The next step is to cut out the hole for the cooling unit, then continue applying the drywall to the rest of the exterior walls.

Tip: When putting up drywall, don't butt the pieces too closely together. Drywall needs room for expansion and contraction at the joint.

12. A corner bead (figure J) is added at the joints where the two walls join, and it must be straight and sit at a 90-degree angle.
13. Next, Mosby tapes the seams of the drywall and floats the wall with a fast-drying drywall compound.
14. Once the compound is set, use a fine sandpaper to smooth the walls and prepare them for primer and paint.
15. With the sanding complete, it's time for another visit from the electrician, who installs the lights, switches and outlets. He'll have to add another circuit to Mosby's electrical circuit as well. The cooling unit requires a 120 volt, 20 amp dedicated circuit, and to run that circuit, cable has to be fished through the floor joists in the basement ceiling. Eventually the holes will have to be patched and painted.
16. For the interior of the wine cellar, Mosby chose to go with track lighting (figure K).

Note: Light is a natural enemy of wine, and lighting inside the wine cellar should never stay on for long periods of time. Automatic shut-off timers are often installed as precaution.

Safety Alert: Please know that it's always best to have a professional electrician do your electrical work, mainly because working with electricity can be dangerous!